Public and Private Morality of Climate Change: An Easy Solution?


John Broome is a philosopher and economist, Whites Professor of Moral Philosophy at University of Oxford and Fellow of Corpus Christi College, Oxford. I get the impression that he is an economist trying to work in some kind of sphere of morality rather than a philosopher studying issues related to economics. In Broome’s lecture ‘Public and Private Morality of Climate Change’, part of the Ethical Challenges series of public lectures at the University of Southampton, he stated that preventing climate change is simple and requires little effort on our part. Intrigued?

Broome’s answer is offsetting carbon emissions; a practical but in my view unsustainable, quick fix. The first half of his lecture focused on the duty of justice and the duty of goodness. According to Broome, we all have an individual duty to prevent climate change. In this way individuals have a private duty of justice to ensure that their individual actions do not contribute to climate change (private morality). Governments however, do not have a duty of justice to prevent climate change, but they do have a duty of goodness (public morality). This is different to the widely held view that governments have a responsibility to stop climate change.

The issue of climate change is a moral one. We actively cause carbon dioxide emissions, it is not accidental. We generally create emissions for our own benefit and we don’t compensate the victims of our harm. A paper published in Nature from 2005 states: “The World Health Organisation estimates that the warming and precipitation trends due to anthropogenic climate change of the past 30 years already claim over 150,000 lives annually”. It cannot be argued that those most affected by the impact of climate change are not those who are contributing to the problem in the main; therefore we have a moral duty to remedy this injustice.

Broome presents the concept of offsetting as a practical solution to the problem of climate change. In this way, we as consumers in the developed world can continue to consume as much as we like and are used to, if we balance out the carbon emissions. This leads to a balance of greenhouse gases, thus ensuring that our presence on earth does not contribute to climate change on the individual level. All of this comes under private morality; it is our duty of justice to offset. The Government then has a duty of goodness to help us with this by providing loans, carbon tax and carbon tax compensation for those members of society in a lower income bracket. This ‘simple economics’ of passing money back and forth means that we can live guilt free for now, only to leave the next generation with a financial debt to service.

Offsets are typically achieved through financial support of projects that reduce the emission of greenhouse gases. A number of organisations offer this ‘offsetting service’ so for a few hundred pounds a year; you can offset all of your carbon emissions. Broome commented that many environmentalists do not agree with offsetting, so I guess that makes me an environmentalist because I struggle to see the sense in paying to buy things, and then paying to offset what we have bought. Surely what we need is to consume less? Carbon emissions are just one part of a wider sustainability issue and I believe it has to be tackled holistically rather than cherry picking.

That said I don’t have a better solution, at least not a realistic one. I can only compare it to Kate Soper’s idealist view of ‘alternative hedonism’ and the need for a return to the good life. Soper’s keynote which I attended last year stated that we need a drastic transformation of the global economic system for a truly sustainable future. We must radically consume less but rather than advocate a restricted and reduced mode of living, emphasise the pleasures consumerism denies and the displeasures it generates.

We are plagued by state contradictions of economic and ecological promises and maybe offsetting is a solution to this, but I don’t understand where the morality sits with leaving future generations a (further) burden of debt. I think selling the concept, as Broome did, as an easy solution is dangerous because I see our individual duty of justice for future generations as a duty to consume less. But then I’m a hypocrite, I consume plenty more than I’d morally like to. There is no easy long term solution.

Patz, A. et al. (2005) Impact of regional climate change on human health. Nature, 438, pp.310-317

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Oxfam’s Big Bra Hunt Urges Women to Sort through their Undie Drawer


Research by Oxfam found that women are hoarding £1.2bn worth of unworn bras in their lingerie drawer. The charity found that the average woman has nine bras, of which a third are unused. It doesn’t surprise me in the slightest, partly because we don’t know what to do with them when they become unwearable. I myself am guilty of not knowing whether a charity shop would take old bras, but it seems they do and not only do they take them, Oxfam are actively seeking them.

During the month of April, Oxfam have launched the Big Bra Hunt. The Big Bra Hunt is a new campaign to get women up and down the country to donate their old bras. It is supported by celebs Helen Mirren, Zoe Ball and Miquita Oliver and launched on the first Sunday of the month at Spitalfields market.

When you donate bras to Oxfam, many will be sold in Oxfam UK high street stores and others will be sent to Frip Ethique (meaning ‘ethical second-hand clothing’), a unique project run by Oxfam in Senegal. Frip Ethique trades Oxfam UK’s unsold second-hand clothing and provides employment for local people. As bras are so complex to manufacture, they are highly sought after in West African second-hand clothing markets.

For those who want to arrange a group collection with their friends, there is a collector’s kit available complete with invitations and party ideas. For discreet individuals with only one or two bras to give, you can download a freepost label and post them directly to Oxfam’s recycling facility, Wastesaver, to be sent straight to Senegal.

Also as part of the ongoing M&S and Oxfam Clothes Exchange, bra hunters who donate an M&S bra (still the nation’s favourite) to their local Oxfam shop will receive a voucher worth £5 off a £35 spend on clothing, home and beauty at M&S stores and online. Visit www.oxfam.org.uk/bras to find out more about how to donate.

Photo credit: Abbie Trayler-Smith

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British Sociological Association Climate Change Conference

Last Friday (30th March 2012) I attended the one day BSA Climate Change Conference at the University of Southampton. Titled ‘Conceptual and methodological approaches for researching climate change at different societal scales’ the conference looked at climate change from a social science perspective, rather than policy or environmental science for example. If you consider that the little everyday actions such as washing, driving and working all use a significant amount of energy, it is clear that these practices have implications for climate change at a range of societal scales – individual, household, workplace, community, regional, national and international. In short, I and many others would argue, human behaviour is central to climate change. The conference focused on methodological approaches and sociological concepts as sociological research on climate change is still a relatively young field.

There were key note speeches by Prof. John Urry, Dr Pauline Leonard, Prof. Elizabeth Shove, Prof. Patrick Devine-Wright and Dr Heather Lovell, followed by paper workshops in the afternoon. It was a really beneficial day for me, not least because I am at the stage of working on my own PhD methodology. There are many ways to look at my PhD topic which focuses on second-hand retail. One way is the sustainability angle, as clearly the practice of buying second-hand items shuns the need to use virgin resources.

So if human actions (practices as termed in the academic literature) are central to climate change, how can we go about changing these practices? Can we alter them? According to Urry, people are creatures of social habituation. Habits can spread through media and advertising, to become embodied social practices which are difficult to reverse. Indeed systems can get ‘locked in’ over decades in relationship to one another. The secret to combating global warming, Urry argues, is a reversal of most of the systems, practices and habits set in place during the 20th Century. There are a number of problems associated with finding this reverse gear:

1. Carbon capital -systemic carbon interests who themselves are causing the rising GHG emissions.
2. The long term path dependencies of existing systems.
3. Low carbon economy could reduce short term levels of income and consumption.
4. General slowness of societal change.
5. States are rarely able to bring about change from the top partly because of resistance and opposition.
6. Lack of time available to make a seismic shift or system reversal since the atmospheric changes are already ‘in the system’ – is it too late?
7. The need to develop multiple systems simultaneously to generate a new low carbon cluster.

Urry then goes on to contradict his original statement of the need to find a reverse gear, instead arguing that what is actually required is a whole new system, built from scratch, which makes the existing model obsolete. He uses the example of the car and puts forward ideas for a ‘post car system’.
I have picked up on Urry’s talk because of the similarities with the themes that came to light during the Sustainable Consumption Conference in Hamburg last year. The idea that each of us needs to radically alter our practices and lifestyles in order to live for a more sustainable future.

Devine-Wright spoke about the influence of locality in his presentation, the concept that people are only interested in doing what is ethically or morally right if it affects their immediate sense of place. The further away in time and space an issue is, the less people are interested or concerned. Devine-Wright also picks up on a lack of dialogue between human geography and psychology and perhaps this needs to be addressed in future work on social practice. If it is agreed that human action has contributed, or even caused global warming, how ever are we going to change people’s habits and whose responsibility is it to make it happen?

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Mary’s Kinky Knickers British Manufacturing on Mary’s Bottom Line

The three part series Mary’s Bottom Line was interesting for many reasons. For one, who would ever expect plain-spoken Mary Portas to cry? She nearly made me cry – but it was actually forever unemployed father of one Andrew who managed to push me over the edge. The twenty year old had never worked, turned up to the interview in a borrowed suit that was far too big for him, genuinely seemed to want a better life for his son, and turned out to be a natural whiz on the sewing machine. The whole series was inspirational, depressing, frustrating and heartening all rolled into one.

If you didn’t watch it, the channel four series saw retail guru Mary Portas try to ‘bring back UK manufacturing’ (her words) by starting a British-made underwear brand – Kinky Knickers. At one point, clothes and textiles manufacturing was the fifth largest employer in the UK, with factories centred in the Midlands, Leeds and London suburbs. British employment in the industry slumped from nearly half a million in the 1980s to less than 140,000 by 2005 as retailers chose to source from overseas where production costs were significantly cheaper. Mary cherry-picked Middleton, Greater Manchester for her new knicker factory. Middleton was a centre for silk production in the 18th Century, before developing into a cotton spinning town in the mid 19th Century. These days the industry has all but gone, leaving high rates of unemployment.

So along comes Mary to save the day! She hires a team of young unemployed local people, most of which have never touched a sewing machine in their lives, and re-opens an old factory which is managed by the lovely Lynn. The knickers had to be 100% British and Mary had difficulty tracking down the stretch lace as British manufactured. “Was it ever in England?” she asks, referring to lace production. How much research did she do exactly?

In reading reports/articles/blog posts about the programme online it is clear that criticism of the show falls into two camps. Firstly I must say I think Mary has done something really great; she’s brought the issue to public attention and given some lovely people employment. I do hope Kinky Knickers continues to grow and sell and thrive. But it was Mary’s words that she wanted to ‘bring back UK manufacturing’ that ruffled a few feathers in the ethical fashion community. Yes British manufacturing has fallen significantly in the last thirty years, but it is still here in some areas albeit not on TV. LuvaHuva and whomadeyourpants? are just two brands specifically making lingerie in the UK although granted their raw materials don’t claim to be sourced solely from Britain. They have both been founded by inspirational women and grown organically after a huge amount of hard work. You can see why it’s frustrating for some that Mary Portas can swan in with Kinky Knickers and immediately get orders from the likes of Boots, Liberty, John Lewis and ASOS.

For the mainstream media however, it was the price of the knickers that got people talking. At £10 a pair, many people see this as too expensive, despite Mary’s claims that she has made it affordable to all. I don’t know how much Primark’s knickers cost and I wouldn’t wear them if you paid me, but I do know you can get three very pretty knickers from Topshop for a tenner. This doesn’t mean though, that a tenner for a pair of knickers is expensive. Even at M&S, these very simple every knickers cost £12.50 for one, and if you visit luxury lingerie brand La Perla you will pay £215 for these beautiful but teeny briefs.

If you break it down to basic product costing, the La Perla pants are clearly not worth £215, but similarly you don’t get something for nothing. Sadly when it comes to value fashion that seems to be exactly what people do expect. What did you think of the show?

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Green is the New Black: University of East Anglia Teams up with Kingston Uni

Last night, Thursday 1st March, the University of East Anglia teamed up with Kingston University to put on a sustainable fashion event in London. Designers, scientists and environmentalists came together to discuss the future of the fashion industry and how it can reduce its carbon footprint. The event was organised by InCrops, the bio-renewables hub at UEA, and the Materials Knowledge Transfer Network.

The event featured the results of an InCrops-sponsored MA Fashion project at Kingston Uni, which encouraged students to explore the theme of ‘Sustainable Luxury’. The course was designed to introduce designers to low carbon principles in product manufacture, based on efficient use of natural and renewable products. Students were tasked with creating designs that show how crop-derived renewable raw materials can be used to create luxury goods that have a low or zero carbon life cycle from manufacture through to distribution and disposal – and be attractive to consumers.

Nancy Tilbury, MA Fashion course director at Kingston University, said: “Our MA programme sets out to challenge our students to think about the economical, ethical and technological and scientific changes in society and its application to the 21st Century body. When InCrops approached the MA Fashion course, we were delighted to partner them as they shared a unique set of values around the future of production, manufacturing, bio-materials and bio-cycles. Their interest in the luxury sector gave us a steep challenge as many fashion practitioners have failed to successfully communicate the relationship between>fashion and bio-waste.”

So what did they come up with?

Hoyan Ip created a bodice made from orange peel. Hoyan Ip’s work has evolved from a starting point of fragile emotions and reactions to responses to chemical imbalances within the emotional landscape and reflected in bodices made from organic materials that are breaking down and decomposing.

Julia Skergeth created a pair of high heels made out of coffee beans and pistachio shells. All materials used for the high heels are hand made by Julia Skergeth or recycled materials.

Biomimicry images feature a corset made from woodchip by designer Stephanie Niewenhuyse. This corset has also been modelled by singer Pixie Lott in Vogue!

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Ethical Fashion at EcoLuxe London

My latest post for Oxfam Fashion can be found here: Ethical Fashion at Ecoluxe London

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Estethica Focus on Ada Zanditon and Charini

London Fashion Week ran from 17th-22nd Feb and was home to the biannual ethical and sustainable fashion exhibit Estethica, sponsored by Monsoon for the tenth season. Fourteen brands were present, I’m sure I will feature them all at some point over the coming weeks but here are two of my highlights for AW12.

Ada Zanditon

I loved speaking to Ada about her AW collection. She had a narrative for each and every piece, and as a geography researcher myself, it was interesting that much of that narrative was based on the earth and conservation of the natural world. Her collection is called Simia Minerals, meaning ape of the mineral (an analogy of the human race). A graduate of the London College of Fashion, Ada describes her new season influences as “geology, primates and conflict.”

Ada’s strong signature silhouettes are reworked through a geological lense, imaging the structure of metals at the atomic level and layers of the earth from an archaeological yet modern perspective. The collection expresses the chaos and conflict that arises from the exploitation of the earth for our material gain, though glamorous evening dresses and technically perfect jackets and coats. A statement piece is the tailcoat, inspired by the Silver Back Male Gorilla and featuring a swathe of sustainably sourced human hair. Fabrics used in the collection include fairtrade organic velvet, English woven wools, eel skin and upcycled Chanel tweed.

Charini

Luxury, stunningly beautiful lingerie that is ethical too, what’s not to love? I hadn’t come across Charini before attending LFW so it was fab to have a nose at the only lingerie label at Estethica. Designed by Sri Lankan born Charini Suriyage, the label debuted last year after Charini developed it alongside studying for her MA at London College of Fashion.

Charini is launching two ranges this year, the ‘Marry Me’ bridal range using ivory shades and elegant styling and ‘Range X’, a bolder collection using classic black and bronze and faux leather. Charini’s concept for both ranges was her ‘no waste’ policy where upcycled elastics became the basic element of her collection. Using hand woven silks, lace and luxurious satin sourced from artisan communities in Sri Lanka both ranges remain true to the ethical heart of the brand. She refrains from using metal or harmful dying processes in her products too. Sexy lingerie, using traditional manufacturing processes, makes Charini very special indeed.

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London Fashion Week & Estethica


We are currently in the middle of LFW AW12 season, and yesterday I went up for a one day whistle stop tour. It was my second season at LFW and I was keen to see as much as I could in one day, being unable to take any more time off work.

I didn’t attend any of the shows, but I did go round the exhibition, where brands showcase their latest designs, and concentrated my attention on Estethica, the ethical/sustainable fashion showcase. Later in the afternoon I attended the Ecoluxe London Showrooms which also popped up for LFW. Featuring a collection of smaller ethical and sustainable fashion, accessories and jewellery ranges, Ecoluxe ran for two days by invitation. I will be writing up a review of Ecoluxe for Oxfam in the coming days.

Estethica launched at LFW in 2006 and has been sponsored by Monsoon for the last 10 seasons. The exhibition space for Estethica felt a bit cramped (or maybe cosy?) but in my opinion was the most interesting part of the whole LFW exhibition space. The following designers showcased at Estethica and I will be focusing on some of their collections in future blog posts:

Ada Zanditon
Aiste Nesterovaite
Pachacuti
Joanna Cave
Charini
Dr Noki-NHS
Henrietta Ludgate
Junky Styling
Makepiece
The North Circular
Reclaim to Wear
Victim Fashion Street
Monsoon

Great to catch up with brands I’ve seen before and to have the opportunity to see new ones like lingerie label Charini. If you haven’t read the Estethica publication yet, you can find it online.

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‘And Then it was Gone’ Ethical Fashion Film by Claire Pepper


This lovely fashion film by London based photographer Claire Pepper looks at how we use natural resources, and their consumption and destruction. Featuring designers including People Tree, Made, Hattie Rickards and Henrietta Ludgate, all of the clothes used in the film are ethically sourced or vintage finds. Featuring new face Hana Hucinova at Elite London, and shot in an old Victorian school building in East London, ‘And Then it was Gone’ is a fresh, delicate, beautiful and original look at sustainable fashion and what lies behind it.

The film was premiered at the Good Fashion Show last Saturday, 18th Feb. 2012

www.clairepepper.com

and then it was gone from Claire Pepper on Vimeo.

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Oxfam Haberdashery for Sewing Sorts


Yesterday we had an Oxfam fashion bloggers meet up at their PR agency in London. It was a great chance to meet the other Oxfam fashion bloggers and discuss ideas and features for the fashion blog. I am a bit different in that I don’t keep a personal style blog – my personal blog here is more academically research related or linked to ethical fashion and consumption, and the ClothesUK blog is general fashion news and style advice. The other bloggers do lots of exciting posts about upcycling and charity shop finds. Having said that, I did recently have a go at making a machine embroidered Valentine’s Day card for a blog post for tinygreenmom.com.

It is always nice to get the sewing machine out when I have time and if you are the creative sewing sort you should be aware of Oxfam’s growing haberdashery range. I got to see some of the new spring products at yesterday’s meeting which you can see in the photograph. For Christmas I actually got a couple of bits from Oxfam, a retro themed tin of pins, a collection of patchwork fabric swatches and a cute needle book. You can delve into Oxfam’s haberdashery range online or in stores. They have needle books, bags of buttons, transfers, applique patches and more.

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